Ubud

Ubud, a town in central Bali, is far removed from the drunken bikini scene in Kuta, and is regarded as the cultural centre of Bali. It is famous as an arts and crafts hub, and much of the town and nearby villages seems to consist of artists' workshops and galleries. There are some remarkable architectural sights, artistic gems to be found, and a general feeling of well being to be enjoyed, all thanks to the spirit, surroundings, and climate of the place.

Understand

While Ubud seems to outsiders like one small town, it is in fact fourteen villages, each run by its own banjar (village committee). Ubud has grown rapidly, and some central parts are creaking under the strain of coping with the number of visitors. That said, most development is sympathetic to the zeitgeist, if not designed specifically in the local style. Growth continues apace, but there are still terraced rice fields along the rivers, and away from the town centre, regular, quiet village life carries on relatively undisturbed.

History

In many ways, the history of the Ubud area (not so much the modern day town) is the very history of Bali itself.
Ubud has a known history back to the eighth century, when the Javanese Buddhist priest Rsi Marhandya came to Bali from Java, and meditated at the confluence of the two Wos rivers at Campuan, just west of the modern day town centre. A shrine was established and later expanded by Nirartha, the Javanese priest who is regarded as the founder of Bali's religious practices and rituals as we know them today. At this time the area was a centre of natural medicine and healing, and that is how the name Ubud originated: Ubad is ancient Balinese for medicine.

Further temples and monasteries were established over the next 400 hundred years or so. The temple complex at Gunung Kawi, and the cave temples at Goa Gajah (just east and northeast of Ubud), are architectural remains from this period. Many of the dances, drama and rituals still practised in Ubud today, originated at this time. King Airlangga ruled all of Java and Bali in this era, and his seat of government was located in what is now the village of Batuan, just southeast of Ubud.
The Javanese Majapahit kingdom conquered Bali in 1343, and the key final victory was against the Pejeng Dynasty centred at Bedulu, just to the east of Ubud. A great flowering of Balinese culture followed, and the ancestry of Ubud's current day aristocratic families can be traced back to this period. In the sixteenth Century, there was a total transplantation of the Majapahit Kingdom to Bali as the Islamisation of Java forced them eastwards. Power flip-flopped between various dynasties and feudal lords, but the Ubud area remained a very important cog in the various regencies which ruled the island.

In 1900, Ubud became a Dutch protectorate at its own request, and the colonialists interfered little, allowing the traditional arts and culture of the area to remain relatively unchanged. The modern era of Ubud perhaps began in the 1930s, when foreign artists were encouraged by the royal family to take up presence in the town. From their Ubud base, the likes of Walter Spies and Rudolph Bonnet were instrumental in promoting an understanding of Balinese art and culture worldwide. From the 1960s onwards, travellers started to arrive in earnest, mostly intrepid types as the infrastructure was still very limited indeed. Since then, Ubud has developed rapildy into a high profile, top class international destination, whilst still maintaining its integrity as the centre of Balinese art and culture.

Orientation

Orienting yourself in Ubud is fairly straightforward. The town sprawls for several kilometres in all directions, with all of the small villages within a five km radius of the central market being loosely referred to as "Ubud". If you choose a reasonably central place to stay, it is easy enough to get around on foot.
Central Ubud has three main streets: Jl Raya Ubud, Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Hanoman. At the intersection of Jl Raya and Jl Monkey Forest are Ubud Market, Ubud Palace, and the main bemo stop — unsurprisingly, there's also a near-permanent traffic jam here.
Jl Monkey Forest, which runs south through town to the Monkey Forest, is a built-up area, and home to a wide array of accommodation, art galleries, and cafes, as well a number of local services such as schools, a sports field, pharmacies, and travel agents. Jl Hanoman, which runs parallel to Jl Monkey Forest just to the east, is a bit quieter and makes for more pleasant walking.
To the immediate west and northwest are the villages of Campuan (Tjampuhan, Campuhan) and Kedewatan, home to some of the most upmarket hotels in the whole of Asia, with views over valleys sculpted by the Ayung and Wos rivers.
Directly to the south, past the Monkey Forest and still within a twenty minute walk of the central market, is Padang Tegal which then runs into the southern villages of Nyuh Kuning and Pengosekan, about three km from central Ubud. Directly to the east is the village of Peliatan, and then Teges and Bedulu, home of the ninth century Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave).

Climate

Climate	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
High(°C)	31	31	31	31	31	31	30	31	31	33	32	31
Low(°C)	21	21	21	21	20	20	19	19	20	22	23	22
Precipitation (cm)	11	10	8	5	3	2	2	1	2	3	4	8

Due to its elevation at 600 m above sea level, Ubud enjoys cooler temperatures than the coast, and it is sometimes necessary to bring a pullover for the evening. The midday sun can still be scorching though and the humidity often relentless, a murderous combination for temple tramping which, in hilly Ubud, usually requires climbing up and down staircases. (Head out early to beat the heat and the crowds.) If there is a time to avoid, it would be the depths of the wet season in January and February — when it rains in Ubud, it really rains.

Tourism Information Office

• Bina Wisata, Jl Raya Ubud (just west of Ubud Market), +62 361 973285. Not especially helpful, but they always have a few leaflets, and local businesses advertise current events there. 

Get in

By bemo

There are regular public bemos from Denpasar's Batubulan terminal to Ubud which cost Rp 8,000(1 USD = 8,849.56 Rp), and take about an hour. Most bemos run in the early morning, and you will not find any after 4PM. In the opposite direction, bemos depart every morning from the central market (northern entrance) in Ubud.

By taxi

If you want to take a taxi to Ubud from South Bali, it is best to charter the vehicle for a return trip, otherwise, you'll be hit with a 30% fee for going out-of-town. Metered fares, one-way and not including surcharge, are around Rp 100,000 from Denpasar and Rp 200,000 from Kuta.

By bus

Perama offers daily direct transfers to Ubud from Ngurah Rai International Airport, Sanur, Lovina, Kuta, Bedugul, Candidasa, and Padang Bai. These are convenient and inexpensive; e.g. four times per day from the airport for Rp 50,000. Rather less conveniently, the Perama terminal is not located in the centre of Ubud, but about two km south in Padang Tegal, on Jl Hanoman just south of the intersection with Jl Monkey Forest.
You can go to the "offical Tourist Information" (just in the middle of town, on the big crossroad. opposite the market at Monkey Forest Road/Jalan Raya Road) and buy your ticket there (offical outlet, same price) and Perama will pick you up there, to transfer to the Perama Bus Hub out of Town.

Get around

Central Ubud can be covered on foot, but you will need some form of transport to explore the extended vicinity.
Ubud is generally a little quieter, and the streets calmer than the more urbanised parts of Bali. So whilst traffic is slower than in downtown Kuta for example, the sidewalks are often blocked by motorbikes, or a collapsed section necessitates a step off the sidewalk potentially placing you in the path of traffic. That traffic could be a tricycle or a truck, so keep your wits about you.

By bemo

Bemos ply the main routes in and around Ubud, and the main stop and gathering point is Ubud market at the junction of Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Raya Ubud. Most bemos stop running in the late afternoon, and are always more frequent in the morning.

By taxi

No metered taxis operate in Ubud, and any you see will be dropping off passengers from further afield.

By local car

Most local transport comes in the form of SUVs or minivans that can be hired with a driver for specific trips. Look for the circular yellow "E" logo on the windshield certifying them as Ubud Transport Association members. You can (and should) haggle a bit over the price, and pay less than for the equivalent journey in a metered taxi. A short trip should be less than Rp 20,000, and drivers will be glad to wait for you for a return fare.
Also, there are guys on motorbikes who will also offer bike rides (ojek) and are about half the price of those in a car.

By hotel car

Many hotels are located out of town, and are happy to offer regular, complimentary drop-off and pick-up services to central Ubud. Expect to pay higher than taxi prices if you are intending to go further afield.

By motorbike

As elsewhere in Bali, motorbike rental is widely available, and you will not be short of options. Expect to pay between Rp 50,000 and 80,000 per day for a late model motorbike in good condition. Look for rental agencies on all the main streets, or ask your hotel to organise for you. Navigation can be confusing, as signage is limited and all the roads look pretty much the same at first, but take it easy and stop to ask for directions if (when) you get lost.

By bicycle

You can rent bicycles for about Rp 20,000-30,000 per day. There is a large selection available at the corner of the football field on Jl Monkey Forest. Beware though: Ubud is very hilly, so cycling can be hard, sweaty work. Traffic on the main roads is heavy and drivers rarely pay heed to cyclists.

• Bali Hai adventures Specialist, Jl Raya Astina Timur, Gianyar, +62 878 61519572, +62 818 05559902 (balihaitour@gmail.com), See the Bali countryside at a leisurely pace on a bicycle. Includes Private A/C van (min 2 pax booking), mountain bike and safety helmet, breakfast and lunch, fruit and mineral water on tour, entrance fees, personal insurance covered US$25,000.00 (from the age of 1 to 65 years old) (Ubud) Rp 350,000/person.  edit

Places to see

Ubud is so crammed with attractions it can almost seem like a visual assault at times. Try to make sure you allocate at least a week for your visit here, and take your time to explore properly. Visitors who jump up to Ubud for just two or three days of their Bali holiday, stand little chance of understanding much of what is going on around them.
The key historical sites are located out of town, some as far as 20 km away, and you might find it worthwhile joining a tour to visit these. If you do visit attractions such as Goa Gajah, Gunung Kawi, Pura Kehen and Tirta Empul under your own steam, try to find a knowledgeable guide when you get there. Whilst you will certainly appreciate the beauty of these places, their cultural and spiritual significance may be lost without a guide.

Temples and historical sites

• Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), Jalan Goa Gajah. 8AM-6PM daily. The centerpiece here is a cave dating back to the ninth century, the entrance to which is an ornately carved demon's mouth. Inside are some fragmentary lingam and yoni statues, as well as a statue of Ganesha. Large, carved guards stand around pools near the entrance, and a little path leads to a waterfall, rice fields, and some Buddhist stupa fragments. Some parts of the Goa Gajah complex were not excavated until the 1950s. Nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rp 15,000. 

• Gunung Kawi (Poet Mountain), Tampaksiring (18 km northeast from Ubud). 7AM-5PM daily. Dating from the eleventh century, this is presumed to be the burial complex of King Anak Wungsu and his many wives. Reached by climbing down 371 steps, the location at the bottom of a steep valley lined with paddy fields, is quite stunning. The smaller complex on the south side of the river is presumed to have been built for the King's wives, while the larger complex is thought to have been the residence of the King himself, and perhaps his concubines. You must take off your shoes before entering into the central pura complex. About 1 km downstream there are further tomb cloisters. On the way back up, take a break at Cafe Kawi which has cold drinks for Rp 10,000 and up. Rp 6,000 including sarong and sash rental. 

• Pura Kehen (Kehen Temple), Jl Sriwijaya, Bangli (just north of Bangli town centre, which itself is about 30 minutes north east from Ubud). 8AM-5PM daily. One of the most attractive temples in the whole of Bali, and as it is slightly off the beaten path, one which receives relatively few visitors. The temple was founded in 1206, and has an especially impressive 11-tiered meru in the inner courtyard. When you visit here take a little extra time to look around Bangli. It is a quiet and attractive market town. Rp 6,000. 

• Puri Saren Agung (Royal Palace, Water Palace), (across Jl Raya Ubud from Ubud Market). 9AM-5PM daily. This was the palace of the kings of Ubud until the 1940s, and some royal descendants live there to this day. Parts of the complex are off limits to the public, but entry to the rest is free, and this is Ubud's best setting for dance performances.

• Tirta Empul, Tampaksiring (20 km northeast from Ubud). 8AM-6PM daily. One of the holiest temples in Bali built around hot springs that still bubble in the central courtyard. The Balinese come here to bathe and purify themselves physically and spiritually, and during Galungan, the sacred barong masks are bathed here. The complex dates to 960, but the present buildings are largely modern reconstructions. Rp 6,000. 

• Yeh Pulu, Banjar Batulumbang, Bedulu nr Gianyar (turn off the Ubud to Gianyar main road about 400 metres east of the entrance to the Goa Gajah complex. Drive through Banjar Batulumbang until the road comes to an end. From here walk down the track). 7AM-6PM daily. This complex of rock carvings is close to Goa Gajah but far less well known. The carvings date from the fourteenth or fifteenth century, and are set in a very attractive rice field. You can reach Yeh Pulu on foot through the rice fields from Goa Gajah, but you will definitely need a guide for the 45 minute walk as there is no path to speak of. In addition to the carvings, there is a holy well here, and the attendant priest will be happy to bless you with the well water. Temple dress code applies. This is a much underrated and under-visited site, and is highly recommended. Rp 6,000.

Museums and Galleries

• ARMA, Jl Pengosekan, +62 361 975742 (info@armamuseum.com). 9AM-5PM. Showcases works by well known Balinese artists, as well as international artists who made Bali their home such as Walter Spies, Adrian Jean Le Mayeur, Rudolph Bonnet and Arie Smit. The only painting in Bali by renowned Javanese artist Radan Saleh is exhibited here. They also run workshops for thirteen different aspects of Balinese art and culture. Cafe with tea and coffee Rp 40,000.

• Blanco Renaissance Museum, Jl Raya Campuhan, +62 361 975502, 9AM-6PM daily. Before he passed away in 1999, Spanish artist Antonio Blanco was an absolute fixture on the Ubud art scene. His former home is now a museum showcasing his sometimes bizarre but always interesting work. Think Salvador Dali transplanted to Asia. In the garden you can take pictures of the exotic birds flying around. Rp 50,000.

• Museum Puri Lukisan (Museum of Fine Arts), Jl Raya Ubud (on the main road just west of the market), (info@mpl-ubud.com), 8AM-4PM daily. When it opened in 1954, this was the first private museum in Bali. Three buildings showcase traditional and modern Balinese art. The displays are a little musty and English labeling is spotty, but some of the works, particularly the carvings, are quite amazing. Exhibits by noted artists I Gusti Nyoman Lempad and Rudolph Bonnet, amongst others. Rp 20,000. 

• Museum Rudana, Jl Cok Rai Pudak 44 (on the road to Mas, about a 10 min drive south of Ubud town centre), +62 361 975779 (rudana@senatorrudana.com), Mon-Sat 9AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. A wide range of Balinese paintings is exhibited here, both traditional and modern. Run by its owner, artist Nyoman Rudana, who is often present. Rp 20,000, under 12yo is free. 

• Neka Art Museum, Jl Raya Sanggingan, Kedewatan, +62 361 975074 (info@museumneka.com), M-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. This museum houses perhaps the most important art collection in the whole of Bali. Six pavilions house the various collections which include dedicated rooms for artists Arie Smit and I Gusti Nyoman Lempad. Rp 40,000.  

• Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women, Jl Sriwedari 2B, +62 361 975485, Tu-Su 9AM-5PM. This gallery features art only by women; "Seni" is Indonesian for art and "Wati" means women.

Landscape

The area around Ubud is characterised by gently rolling rice paddies, and these create an impression of greenness which can be quite startlingly beautiful. This is especially true to the south and southeast of the town. Any visitor approaching from the south will appreciate this and it is worth a stop just to absorb the gentle beauty of it all.
Northeast of Ubud town centre the land starts to become more undulating, and this is a good place to view Bali's classic rice terraces. The village of Tegallalang is very much a tourist trap, but it is worth braving the hordes of trinket peddlers to view the stunning terraces there. From the town centre, take Jl Raya as far east as you can go, and then turn north and continue about nine km until you reach Tegallalang. Look for the picture postcard rice terraces on you right-hand side. For those moving on north to the Kintamani area, this is on route and makes for an easy stop.
Far more off the beaten path is to explore the rice fields immediately north of town. A good route is to take Jl Raya eastwards from the town centre and turn north up the small road immediately adjacent to the BCA Bank building. Proceed up this road through the village of Kutuh and just keep going, turning where you feel like it. This is a very gentle, rural area with some lovely landscape. A great way to explore is by bicycle as there are no steep hills to negotiate here.

On the opposite side of town in the Campuhaun, Sanggingan, and Kedewatan areas, the landscape changes dramatically as great gorges have been carved out of the limestone land base by the Ayung and Wos rivers. It's no surprise that so many five star hotels have made their home in these lush, dramatic valleys. Opportunities for viewing these gorges are many. You can just find your own way and explore by motorbike (it is very hard work by bicycle as the hills are steep). Head west out of town over the Campuhan Bridge and just start exploring. The main road here is Jl Raya Sanggingan, and if you continue heading away from town you will reach the junction with Jl Raya Kedewatan. From that point you can turn in either direction and just keep exploring. Alternatively, you can stop into a hotel or restaurant, have a drink or lunch, and gaze out in very civilised surroundings. If your pockets are deep, the restaurant at the Four Seasons in Sayan probably has the best views of all of the Ayung Gorge. A more budget conscious option is the lovely Indus restaurant in Sanginngan, with tables facing out to the Wos River.

Others

• Bali Bird Park, Jl Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir, Singapadu, +62 361 299352 (sales@bali-bird-park.com), 9:30AM-5:30PM daily. A splendid 2 hectare aviary park with more than 250 species of birds in well thought out, attractive enclosures. The park has an enlightened, modern attitude to exhibiting animals, and this is obvious from the very open, walk-in aviaries, and the number of free range birds throughout the park. Also has a notably good cafe. One of Bali's best formal attractions. Adults US$21, children US$10. 

• Botanic Garden, Kutuh Kaja (on the road to Kutuh Kaja village which runs north from Jl Raya Ubud close to BCA Bank), 8AM-6PM daily. The recently opened Botanic Garden is a wonderful way to spend a few hours walking around and exploring the valley that it fills. It is best to go in the morning and avoid the afternoon heat. Rp 50,000.

• Monkey Forest, Jl Monkey Forest, Ubud, +62 361 971304 (info@monkeyforestubud.com), A sacred forest full of ravenous monkeys, so don't bring any food or you will risk bites and a need for rabies injections. Stroll through to find Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, a temple of the dead. A visit to the very informative website beforehand is highly recommended.

• The White Herons of Petulu, Petulu. Every evening between 15,000 and 20,000 cattle egrets, known colloquially as white herons and in Balinese, kokokan, roost in the village of Petulu just ten minutes north of Ubud. It is quite a spectacle as these large, elegant white and rusty orange birds arrive in countless groups and tussle for the prime roosting spots. Each morning at dawn they leave en-masse to find feeding spots around the island. Some also breed in the area and nests can be seen in the roadside trees. The cattle egrets are joined by smaller numbers of little egrets and Javan pond herons. According to local legend, the egrets first appeared here in such large numbers after one of the worst massacres of suspected communists during the troubles of 1965. This led local villagers to believe that these birds are the souls of the slaughtered, and ceremonies to that effect are still held today. The village of Petulu is reached by heading east from Ubud town centre on Jl Raya Ubud until you meet the obvious junction with Jl Raya Andong. Turn left, and go up the hill for about 2 km until you see the signposted left turning to Petulu village. Go into the village and you will see signs and warungs set up in the best places to view the spectacle. Get there by 5:30PM. 

Things to do

As a centre of the arts, Ubud has dance and shadow puppet performances every night. There are also plenty of spas for resynchronising your chakras.

Cooking Classes

• Paon Bali Cooking Class, Laplapan Village, +62 81 337 939095, Traditional Balinese cooking class in the home of a very hospitable family. They offer a pick-up in Ubud. 

Cultural performances

• Barong Dance, Batubulan (about fifteen minutes south of Ubud on the main road to Sanur). A Barong dance performance takes place here every day at 9:30AM, lasting about an hour. It is very much a performance for tourists, and the story is of the never ending battle between good and evil. There is actually not much dancing and a lot of talking in this performance. While buying a ticket, you will get a description of the forthcoming performance. Rp 80,000.

• Pura Dalem, Jl Raya Ubud. One of the best kecak performances in Ubud, every Friday and Monday evening. Staged in beautiful surroundings outside under the banyan trees, and followed by a fire dance. Rp 80,000. 

• Puri Saren & Puri Saraswati (just east of Jl Monkey Forest), Jl Raya Ubud. Smack dab in the centre of town, dance performances are staged here almost nightly. Rp 75,000+.

Spas

• Bali Healing, Jl Hanoman 43, Padang Tegal, +62 361 7911104. 10AM-10PM. Even for the experienced massage consumer, this six bed massage centre is an experience. A 1 hour massage is about Rp 80,000. Magic Warm Stone Massage for Rp 120,000. Several other deep tissue and reflexology treatments are available.

• Bodyworks Healing Centre, Jl Hanoman 25, +62 361 975720, 10AM-9PM. Ubud Bodyworks Healing Centre was founded by Ketut Arsana 25 years ago, and it is still his family home. The 1st such establishment in Ubud, and was a place where Balinese people would come for healing long before the tourist hordes arrived. There is a definite emphasis on the spiritual elements of healing.

• Pertenin Body Care, Jl Jatayu, +62 361 972834, 10AM-9PM. Facial treatments and massage in a relaxing, modern environment. Customer may select the oils and herbs for any treatment. From Rp 85,000, free pick-up. 

• SANg Spa, Jl Jembawan 29B (at the bend in the southern part of Jl Jembawan, walk down a small side street), +62 361 8631816, 9AM-9PM. Small full-service day spa, owned and run by a young couple named Ngurah and Asti. Simple, secluded, clean and nicely decorated. Very professional staff. From Rp 90,000. 

• Ubud Sari Health Resort, Jl Kajeng 35 (a 10 minute walk northwards up Jl Kajeng from the centre of Ubud), +62 361 974393, 10AM-9PM. Emphasis on Balinese-style healing therapy. Offers alternative health care, a day spa, beauty salon, health massage, vegetarian restaurant and yoga. From US$15. 

• Verona Spa, Jl Monkey Forest (at the end of the alley by Yulia Hotel), +62 361 970975, 9AM-9PM. Private individual or coupled rooms that open onto a rice terrace. 4 hour package called the Verona Spa Experience has a massage, body scrub, flower bath, facial, manicure, pedicure, and hair creme bath (not to be missed if you like having your head massaged). From Rp 150,000. 

Whitewater rafting

There is good rafting available on the Ayung River at Sayan, just west of Ubud. Almost as good as the rafting itself is the wonderful experience of being right down inside the Ayung gorge. This is the domain of high-end resorts like the Four Seasons and Amandari, and it is a very scenic area indeed. The rapids are Class II and Class III, and best during the rainy season as the river can run a bit dry from June to September. There are two well established operators, both with offices on the main road in Sayan, close to Amandari, however other operators have sprung up recently as well.

• Bali Adventure Tours, +62 361 721480 (info@baliadventuretours.com), Offer many other activities as well as white-water rafting. About US$60.

• Sobek Bali Utama, +62 361 287059 (sales@balisobek.com), Specialise in white-water rafting and cycling tours. Established in 1989, this was the first company of its type in Bali, and they are distinctly less package oriented than their main competitor. About US$60.

Yoga and meditation

• Taman Hati Yoga and Meditation Center, Banjar Nyuh Kuning, +62 361 974739 (tamanhati2000@yahoo.com). This centre was founded in 2000 by two local men, both from families containing many generations of Hindu priests. Set up for both complete beginners, and those already experienced but wishing to broaden their horizons. Every Wednesday at 7:30PM, there is a free class entitled "World Peace Meditation". From about Rp 90,000.

• Ubud Yoga Centre, Jl Raya Sanggingan (almost opposite Neka Museum), +62 361 970460 (julie@baliyogahealing.com), Expat-run centre offers everything from single attendance classes up to residential yoga instructor training courses. From Rp 90,000 per session. Good value ten class pass for Rp 550,000.

• The Yoga Barn, Jl Hanoman, Pengosekan, +62 361 970992 (info@theyogabarn.com), Range of classes and an excellent set of teachers mostly in the Ashtanga/Vinnyasa school. Upper studio has great views of the surrounding rice terraces. Residential packages, multiple day classes and simple single entry classes. If you are a teacher, they offer the possibility of renting the centre to host your classes. From about Rp 100,000.

Shopping attractions

Ubud has a vast assortment of art and jewelry shops. Head for the boutique type stores on Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Raya Ubud for higher quality goods (with appropriately higher prices), or down to the market for bulk-produced cheapies.

Ubud Market

Located at the corner of Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Raya Ubud, this is a double storey warren of stalls bursting at the seams with wood carvings, batik shirts, sarongs, and all manner of other souvenirs aimed specifically at tourists. The merchants here haggle with tourists for a living, and think nothing of asking for ten times the going price, so try to establish a baseline before you go in to buy. Most of the merchants downstairs will lose interest if you try to get a reasonable price. It is better to try the shops upstairs where you will find the same products often for sell at lower prices. You will still need to use your best bargaining skills of course. Try to avoid the period from 11AM-2PM when tour buses from further afield tend to arrive en-masse.
If hiring a car for a day, it might be worth it to make a stop in Tegallalang, where they are geared more towards wholesale buyers. The Sukawati Market is crowded and sells trinkets in bulk as well, but quality is dubious.

Craft villages between Ubud and Sanur

The road to Ubud from Sanur in the south passes through a series of small towns and villages which specialize in the production of particular arts and crafts. The towns are Batubulan/Singakerta for stone carvings, Celuk for silver jewelry, Batuan for paintings, and Mas for wood carvings. The whole area is sometimes referred to as the "craft villages" of Bali, although it is all a bit more built-up and congested than one might infer from the term "village."
This is the best area to see and buy a wide variety of Balinese craftwork in a short period of time. There are many large showrooms where arts and crafts in the Balinese style are offered for sale. Nearly all organised day-tours of central Bali stop at one or more of these showrooms (and the tour operators usually have a financial tie-up with the places where they stop, collecting a commission on purchases.) Be careful, many of these shops specialize in pricing based on huge commissions to the drivers and tour busses.

Other shops & markets

• Ganesha Bookstore, Jl Raya, (info@ganeshabooksbali.com), 9AM-6PM daily. Second hand bookstore. Also has great range of new books about Bali and Indonesia. Been around since 1986 and now has a second branch in Seminyak. 

• Pondok Pecak Library, Jl Monkey Forest (on the opposite side of the football pitch from Jl Monkey Forest), +62 361 976194. 9AM-5PM daily. This privately run community library often has decent fiction and other books for sale. By buying here you are supporting their mission to make free books available to Balinese schoolkids. When you visit, check to see if they have any cultural performances coming up. Also has a small cafe serving home-made snacks.

• Sukawati Art Market, Sukawati (about twenty minutes south of Ubud on the main road to Sanur). This huge market is like a one-stop centre for all the craft villages between Sanur and Ubud. Many souvenir shop owners from around Bali wholesale purchase their items here, and prices are considerably lower than in the tourist centers like Kuta, Sanur, and Ubud town centre. For a taste of everyday, go to the food and produce market opposite the art market.

• Threads of Life, Jl Kajeng 24, +62 361 972187 (tac@threadsoflife.com), 10AM-7PM daily. A fair trade store that stocks commercially made, traditional hand-woven textiles from Bali and all points east in Indonesia. Or better yet, go to the shops that are actually from the villages and outer islands like Timor and Flores, and specialize in traditional weavings.

Places to eat

Ubud is renowned in Bali for its wide range of restaurants, and is probably second only to Seminyak in terms of the quality of the offerings — Ubud is home to some of the most creative eateries in Bali.
At the other end of the scale, travellers on a budget will not be short of options, as there are many simple warungs serving up the standard Indonesian staples.

Budget

• Dewa Warung, Jl Goutama. 10AM-9PM daily. Dewa's is one of the better cheap places to eat in town. Serves all the usual Balinese and Indonesian dishes. The most expensive item on the menu is Rp 20,000. 

• Ibu Oka Warung Babi Guling, Jl Suweta (just north of the Jl Raya Ubud-Jl Suweta-Monkey Forest Rd crossroads). 11AM-3PM daily. Eating at Ibu Oka is one of the ultimate Bali culinary experiences. The babi guling (spit-roasted pig) here is world-famous, and this humble eating place is virtually a place of pilgrimage. The roast pork is served with rice and spiced veggies, order the special (Rp 30,000) to get a bit of everything — including offal and blood sausage. There are normal tables and chairs but you can also sit on the floor at low tables inside the bale (pavilion). Ibu Oka also has a branch in Mas (tel: +62 361 976345) on the main Teges-Sukawati road, which makes it on the route between Ubud and the airport. Unlike the original, where hygiene and appearance are not strong points, this outlet is a two-storey restaurant which is spotless, airy and comfortable. From Rp 25,000. 

• Warung Igelanc (Iggy's), Jl Raya Ubud, +62 81 58943251. 11AM-10PM daily. Cheap and cheerful Indonesian favorites like nasi campur, fried rice and noodles, plus (this being Ubud) a range of herbal drinks, such as Ginger Jive. 

• Warung Lada, Jl Hanoman. 10AM-9PM daily. Choose from the various Indonesian side dishes (nasi campur-style) that are displayed behind the counter. You can pick as many dishes as you like as you pay for each serving. A full plate is around Rp 30,000 including a fresh fruit juice. Be on time for lunch because it is usually packed. 

• Sari Bamboo, Penestanan. 8AM-9PM daily. A tourist class warung, with food freshly cooked to order, set amid tropical gardens on the main road to Penestanan village. Mainly Indonesian food flavoured to suit the taste of western visitors. The warung and bungalows are easily distinguishable by the display of modern art works by the resident artist. No hard sell though, just good food in beautiful surroundings at good prices. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Rp 15,000-25,000.

• Warung Aja, Jl Monkey Forest (about halfway down Jl Monkey Forest, the warung is set back away from the road, on the right side if heading south towards the Monkey Forest), +62 361 973398. 9AM-10PM daily. Cosy and friendly, Warung Aja is run by a couple from Java and is a good place to sample Indonesian food from Java, such as nasi rawon, nasi kuning, and pecel. There are also the usual Balinese food items on the menu like sate lilit. Mains from Rp 20,000.

Mid-range

• Batan Waru, Jl Dewi Sita, +62 361 977528, 8AM-midnight daily. Long established Ubud institution. Excellent Balinese and other Indonesian food as well as western options, in a well designed space. Also serves top quality coffee, and has a dessert menu which includes an especially notable version of Balinese black rice pudding (bubur injin). Indoor and outdoor seating. Most mains Rp 40,000-60,000.

• Babyface Restaurant, Jl Monkey Forest, +62 361 976127, 11AM-11PM daily. Simple two-storey building with a wide choice of food with mains starting at Rp 30,000. This restaurant also has free WiFi and lovely staff. The downstairs has a restaurant feel but upstairs is more of a lounge, where you can relax and use your laptop. While the wifi is free, if you need to use electricity, the first twenty mins free, then Rp 200 per min after that. 

• Cafe des Artistes, (Jl Bisma), +62 361 972706, 11AM-midnight daily. This Belgian-owned eatery serves Indonesian dishes as well as a vast array of international classics. Famous for their grilled Tenderloin steaks. Extensive winelist, cocktails, Belgian beers and homemade desserts. Free wifi from 11AM-6PM. To make sure you get a table for dinner, call ahead. About Rp 50,000 per head.

• Casa Luna, Jl Raya Ubud, +62 361 973282, 8AM-10PM daily. Large, long-established restaurant serving western and local dishes, and plenty that fall somewhere in between. Mains about Rp 30,000-50,000. 

• China Moon, 8 Jl Monkey Forest (at the corner of Jl Hanoman and Jl Monkey Forest), 7AM-2PM daily. While China Moon is not packed during lunch and dinner time, it does have some of the better Chinese cuisine available in Ubud. The owner of the restaurant comes from Taiwan and is really passionate about cooking and helping customers. Unsurprisingly, Taiwanese food is the big thing here, so you might want to try the mushroom pork soup or any other of stews and soups Taiwanese cuisine has to offer. They also serve food from other regions of China, as well as the typical Balinese dishes (or a fusion of both). De Ubud Villas & Spa is from the same owner at the backside. Mains Rp 30,000-50,000.

• Mojo's Flying Burritos, (on the main road near Bank BCA), 10AM-10PM daily. Mexican restaurant serving burritos, nachos, and tacos all completely handmade including handrolled tortillas and corn chips. At night, a good joint to hang out with expats drinking fresh margaritas and sangria by the pitcher. Mains Rp 20,000-35,000.

• Taco Casa 'n Grill (Mexican Restaurant), Jl Raya Pengosekan, Ubud (across from Artini 3 Cottages), +62 361 2123818 (info@tacocasabali.com), 11AM-10PM daily. Tacos, nachos, 8-layer burrito, fajitas, cheesy enchiladas, quesadillas, and 'taco salad bowl'. Fresh blended tropical fruit juices or lassies, milkshakes, freshly prepared lemonade, pure juices, mineral water, hot drink, margarita, mojito, sangria and soft drinks. Mains Rp 22,000-45,000.

• Murni's Warung, Jl Raya Campuan-Ubud (at the Campuan Bridge), +62 361 975233 (murni@murnis.com, fax: +62 361 972146), 9AM-11PM daily. Excellent western and Balinese food in a stunning, gorge setting. Elegant lounge bar. Historic, being the 1st real restaurant in Ubud founded by Murni herself in 1974. Also a shop with interesting collectibles and the odd real antique. Mains Rp 20,000-70,000. 

• Naughty Nuri's Warung and Grill, Jl Raya Sangiggan (opposite the Neka Art Museum half way up the hill heading north out of Ubud), +62 361 977547. 10AM-11PM daily. Crowded roadside watering hole. Microbrews, great martinis and slabs of BBQ ribs. This is very much a standard stop for Korean or Japanese tour buses. Once a week they do amazing grilled tuna. Careful that the waitresses do not stick other peoples drinks on your bill. A few times a year they have parties where drinks are US$10 for as much beer as you can handle, for example during USA elections and the Superbowl. Mains Rp 20,000-70,000. 

• Nomad, Jl Raya Ubud 35, +62 361 977169, 11AM-11PM daily. A long-standing institution that serves up a good selection of Balinese, Indonesian, and western dishes, but deservedly popular is their version of a tapas selection, consisting of bite-sized portions of local flavors. 12 pieces of tapas served with rice costs Rp 90,000 and feeds two. Also serves a wide range of cocktails and spirits. 

• Tutmak, Jl Dewi Sita (next to the football field), +62 361 975754. 8AM-11PM daily. A favorite with the expat crowd, Tutmak offers an international menu, but is especially famous for its superb coffee made from local arabica fresh roasted daily by the owners. Mains about Rp 25,000-50,000. 

Splurge

Many of the five star hotels in and around Ubud have top class restaurants, with the Four Seasons Resort and Maya Ubud being of special note.

• Bebek Bengil (Dirty Duck Diner), Jl Hanoman, Padang Tegal, +62 361 975489, 11AM-10PM daily. An interesting restaurant with paddy field views and nice gardens. Famous for their crispy fried duck and some European-based menu items. They have a good selection of cakes as well. About Rp 100,000 per head. 

• Mozaic, Jl Raya Sanggingan, +62 361 975768, 11AM-11PM daily. The brainchild of chef Chris Salans, this is one of the leading restaurants in the whole of Bali, and one which will please even the most jaded of foodies. Multi-award winning, including the coveted Les Grandes Tables du Monde award (the only restaurant in Bali ever to achieve that). Western prices, but worth it as a special treat. Try the degustation menu. 

• Terazo, Jl Suweta (just north of the junction with Jl Raya Ubud), +62 361 977528, 10AM-midnight. High quality fusion cuisine in a restaurant environment with a Mediterranean colonial feel. Notably excellent desserts. Owned and run by the same people as Batan Waru. Rp 100,000+ per head. 

Places to drink

Ubud is emphatically not party town: there are a few places for a quiet drink, but the strictly enforced local regulation that all live performances and loud music must end by 10:30PM puts a bit of a clamp on the local nightlife. More often than not, visitors have a quiet drink with their evening meal, and call it a night.

• Ary's Warung, Jl Raya Ubud 35 (opposite Puri Saraswati), +62 361 975959, 10:30AM-10PM daily. Don't be fooled by the name, this is a stylish watering hole with a large bar downstairs, complete with sofas and cow-leather bar stools, and a rather less busy restaurant upstairs. Drinks are expensive but generously sized.

• Flava Lounge, Jl Pengosekan, +62 361 972953, 11AM-midnight daily. A slightly curious cafe/bar, which has regular open mike nights, occasional karaoke bashes, and even hip-hop and R&B DJs. Sometimes it goes off a bit (at least by Ubud standards), and at others is deserted. Also throws occasional events supporting various causes. 

• Jazz Cafe, Jl Sukma No 2, Tebesaya, +62 361 976594, Tu-Su 5PM-midnight. Jazz bar with live bands nightly, which are sometimes local cover bands, not jazz. A limited food menu and a good selection of drinks. Cover charge Rp 25,000, drinks Rp 50,000 and up, Rp 85,000+ for a cocktail. 

• Rendezvousdoux, Jl Raya Ubud 14, +62 361 7470163. 10AM-11PM daily. On Thursday evenings there is often a jam session with local expat musos trying their hand at various forms of ethnic music. Otherwise it is a generally quiet cafe.  

• Sawah Indah Warung Ikan Bakar, Jl. Raya Goa Gajah (Peliatan), +62 361 785 8080. 9AM-10PM. Lunch or dinner with a rice field view. Fish pond. Relaxing and good for a family or group. Rp 50,000. 

Places to stay

Ubud has a vast selection of lodging for all budgets. Many visitors prefer to stay out in nearby rural areas instead of in the town centre, ideally with views of the famous rice terraces, but this can make it a little difficult to get around. As in most of Bali, in all but the grandest of hotels, check-in and check-out times are a bit of a moveable feast. It is safe to assume about 2PM and 11AM.

Budget

Ubud has many homestays which are the cheapest form of lodging, a good way to meet the locals, and the natural replacement for hostels on the backpacker circuit. If you want to stay in town, the area around Jl Monkey Forest is generally the most expensive little more expensive (from Rp 80,000-100,000 per night). If you want cheaper prices try the areas around Jl Hanoman, north of Jl Raya Ubud and further out in Peliatan. In the low season especially, bargains can be had by those willing to bargain.

• Dewa Bungalows, Jln Hanuman 48, Padangtegal, +62 361 970475. Family compound close to the center of town which currently has 8 rooms but planning to double that soon. Family-run and gracious, it has nice little slate pool perfect for a dip in the heat of the day. Rp 200,000-250,000.

• Dewi Antara Homestay, Jl Sugriwa, Padang Tegal, +62 0361 976072 (dewi.antara.ubud@gmail.com). A humble Balinese family homestay. Quiet and clean bungalows in a garden setting. The father participates in cultural activities (he's a dancer), so it's fun to watch him in traditional dress. Mum prepares the breakfast of toast, fruit salad and coffee. From Rp 50,000. 

• Family Guest House, Jl Sukma 39, Tebesaya, +62 361 974054 (familyhouse@telkom.net). Friendly Hindu family makes you feel right at home. Rooms are placed in a lovely compound and includes a good breakfast. About Rp 100,000. 

• Gustis Garden Bungalows, Jl Kajeng No 27. Ubud, Bali, Indonesia, +62 361 3610840 (info@gustigardenbungalows.com), Balinese style with 25 m sq, private balcony, private bathroom. hot and cold water, king size bed, clothing cabinet, dressing table, ceiling fan, wash basin and standing shower. From about Rp 275,000. 

• Jati Home Stay, Jl Hanoman, Padang Tegal, +62 361 977701, Rooms using natural, traditional materials of bamboo, marble and thatched roofs. An atmosphere of art and culture, all members of Jati's family are traditional Balinese artists. Learn Balinese painting and watch a group of children practice Balinese dancing. From about Rp 100,000. 

• Ketut and Geks House, Jl Raya Bono, Bona Kelod, Blahbatuh, Gianyar (13 km southeast of Ubud), +62 361 945833, +62 813 37468263 (ketutsura@yahoo.com), Rooms with private bathroom with cold and hot shower, overlooking rice fields From Rp 60,000 inc breakfast. 

• Mawar Homestay, Jl Raya Ubud, +62 361 975086 (mawarfamily@gmail.com), Located in the heart of Ubud. 15 min walk from Monkey Forest and 5 min walk from Ubud Market. 10 rooms, bathrooms have hot/cold water, and ceiling fans. Breakfast included. From Rp 150,000. 

• Melati Cottages, Jl Penestanan, +62 361 974650 (melaticottages@hotmail.com), Traditional style rooms set around a cafe by a pool. You can walk in from north or south. From about Rp 220,000. 

• Narasoma Homestay, Gang Beji off Jl Monkey Forest, +62 361 973404, Down a little lane off busy Jl Monkey Forest. Family home with accommodation. Balinese compound setting with traditional carved buildings, surrounded by coconut palms. Top floor has views of the central mountains and Mount Agung. Clean and airy, and breakfast is included. Rp 140,000-170,000. 

• Rumah Roda Homestay and Restaurant, (Jl Kajeng 24), +62 361 975487, Lovely family compound with rooms. The restaurant has a Sunday evening buffet. The book A Little Bit One O'Clock is about this place and family. About Rp 150,000. 

• Shana Homestay, Jl Goutama No7, Padang Tegal (very close to the traditional & art market and Nomad restaurant), +62 361 97481. 3 bungalows in garden setting, each with 2 beds, breakfast included. Rp 100,000. 

Mid-range

• Anom Cottages, Jl Raya Sanggingan (about 25 minutes walk south of the Monkey Forest Road-Jl Raya Ubud crossroads), +62 361 8528521 (info@anomcottagesubud.com), Small bungalows with lovely views over the adjacent valley. 3 min from the town centre. Recently re-furbished. From Rp 450,000.

• Bali T House Village, Lodtunduh, +62 812 3932000, 1, 2 and 3 bedroom private villas in a traditional rice farming and carving village 5 min from central Ubud. Daily maid and breakfast service included. Shared pool with rice-field views. This is an environmentally friendly and ecologically sustainable compound and part of a Balinese village. Rp 400,000-600,000, including breakfast. 

• Jiwa Damai Bali Retreat, Jl Melati 3, Mambal (about 15 minutes with car from central Ubud), +62 361 8988384 (info@jiwadamai.net), Organic (permaculture) garden and retreat centre in small village close to Ubud. 6 modern minimalist styled rooms with king size, queen size or two twin bed and three garden lumbungs. Spacious open air lounge and dining area, fresh water pool, organic fruit and vegetables used to prepare meals. Yoga and meditation classes for guests. Facilities available for seminars and retreats. From US$60.

• Oka Kartini, Jl Raya Ubud 35 (just across the bridge in Peliatan, east of Ubud town centre), +62 361 975759, Quirky old Balinese house complex on the edge of town. The rooms here are a bit long in the tooth, but decorated with more carvings and gold paint than the average temple. Friendly staff supervised by the owner Oka Kartini. Large art gallery, a small but pleasant garden pool. Shadow puppet shows 3 days a week (extra charge). Rp 340,000-511,000, including breakfast.

• Puri Asri Villa & Spa, Jl Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning, +62 361 972550, In a very quiet spot south of town. Offer a couple of scheduled shuttle rides to Jl Monkey Forest and back each day. Walking distance from town via the Monkey Forest. Villas have spacious rooms, A/C, bath and shower (including outdoor showers), patio. Breakfast delivered to room if you choose. Take cash as their credit card facilities don't always work. Rp 500,000 including breakfast. 

• Puri Padi, Jl Hanoman, Padang Tegal (5 min walk southeast of the Monkey Forest), +62 361 8528521 (info@puripadiubud.com), A Balinese style hotel in green gardens surrounded by rice fields. From Rp 450,000. 

• Puri Saraswati Bungalows, Main Road Ubud 80571 Bali, +62 361 8070181, Puri Saraswati is located in the center of Ubud Village, 2 min walk from the Ubud Market, the Ubud Royal Palace and Puri Lukisan Art Museum. Rp 600,000 including breakfast. 

• Samadhi Retreat, Jl Raya Sanggingan, Sanggingan (Opposite Bintang Supermarket, about 5 min from central Ubud), (samadhi.retreat@gmail.com), 3 rooms with panoramic views and a 7x4 m pool. On the Campuhan Ridge overlooking River Wos. From US$40.

• Sri Bungalows, Jl Monkey Forest, +62 361 8528521, Centrally located with 16 bungalow-style rooms in lush gardens. 50 m from the busy road, but very quiet except for the singing of birds. Simple but pleasant rooms with bamboo furniture, western toilets and hot water. Large pool with rice paddies beyond. Internet cafe on the premises. From US$57. 

• Sri Ratih Cottages, Jl Penestanan, Campuhan, +62 361 8528521, 30 rooms, just west of the town centre. Large peaceful garden, good-sized pool, free wifi for guests, 24 hr room service. Long staying guests may find good value here. From US$30.

• Taman Indrakila, Jl Raya Sanggingan, +62 361 975017. Boutique hotel high above the Campuhan River Valley in Sangginan. All rooms have a private terrace. From about Rp 500,000.

• Taman Rahasia (Secret Garden), Penestanan, +62 361 979395 (info@balisecretgarden.com), 7 rooms in boutique hotel in quiet part of Penestanan, rice-field setting. Jacuzzi, spa, restaurant and good-sized pool. Free shuttle bus service to Ubud town centre. Do not accept families with children under 14 yr. From US$100.

• Ubud Terrace Bungalows, Jl Monkey Forest (about 10 minutes walk south of the Monkey Forest Road-Jl Raya Ubud crossroads), +62.81337536464 (info@ubudterracebungalows.com), Refurbished in 2008. Breakfast included, swimming pool, friendly staff. Tour and shuttle buses booking service. From US$30.00. 

• Uma Sari Cottages, Jl Bisma, Ubud (located at the edge of rice fields, a 5 mins walk to Ubud town centre), +62 811 3808011 (info@umasaricottages.com), Balinese style thatch, wood and bamboo cottages surrounded by rice fields. From Rp 450,000. 

• Hibiscus Cottages, Off Jl Bisma, Ubud (From Cafe Des Artistes, walk slightly further down the road and look for a huge signage on the right - follow the narrow pathway into the edge of rice fields), +62 361 970475 (hibiscuscottages@hotmail.com). Family-run, includes breakfast served on your patio. 7 Balinese style concrete cottages surrounded by rice fields. 2 A/C rooms are more expensive but newly built in late 2010. Views from the 2nd storey cottages. Booking by phone is recommended. From Rp 250,000 and up. 

• Villa Indah, Jl Suweta, Br Sakti (2 km north from the tourist information centre), +62 813 37255277 (k_suyasa71@yahoo.com). Breakfast included. Friendly Balinese family. 2 rooms and one suite, all have terrace and bathroom with hot water and tub. Stone villa in the middle of the rice fields. Self service kitchen. Motorbike for rent. From US$35. 

Splurge

Several of the leading luxury resorts anywhere in Asia are located in Ubud. Expect superb standards, with prices to match.

Resorts

• Amandari, Jl Raya Kedewatan, Sayan, +62 361 975333 (amandari@amanresorts.com), checkin: 2PM; checkout: noon. This was the first Aman hotel in Bali built 20 yrs ago. It is getting a little bit tired but is still most impressive. Good views, tennis court, spa, restaurant. A luxury resort with no televisions. From US$750. 

• Amori Villa, Banjar Dukuh, Pejeng Kawan, +62 81 23896114, checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM. A spa resort situated in the Petanu River Valley. Opened in June 2009. 5 private suites all with indoor/outdoor bathrooms, satellite TV, king beds, free broadband internet access plus some shared facilities including an infinity pool. from US$210. (8.516907,115.280437)

• Como Shambhala Estate (formerly Begawan Giri Estate), Payangan, +62 361 978 888, This is one of Bali's most expensive places to stay, and more a collection of super homes than a mere hotel. 20 min north of Ubud, close to the village of Payangan. US$300-4,000.

• Four Seasons Resort at Sayan, Jl Raya Kedewatan, Sayan, +62 361 701010, checkin: 2PM; checkout: noon. One of Bali's truly great hotels, over-looking the Sayan gorge. Suites in the main building, individual villas down by the river. Restaurant and in-house spa facilities. Free shuttle bus to Ubud town centre. From US$460. 

• Komaneka at Bisma, Jl Bisma, +62 361 971933, checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM. Short distance from town but feels like a world apart. On a steep hillside with an infinity edge pool. Surrounded by terraced rice paddies with a river rushing below. Central hotel block has spacious, tastefully decorated suites, private villas, a wedding chapel and separate spa huts. Komaneka also has two other properties in Ubud, the central and slightly older Monkey Forest and the newer but rather remote Tanggayuda. From US$275. 

• Maya Ubud, Jl Gunung Sari, Peliatan (about ten minutes east of Ubud town centre), +62 361 977888, checkin: 2PM; checkout: 11AM. 10 hectares of land with fine villas, excellent spa and a good restaurant. Architecturally impressive resort. Free shuttle to centre of Ubud and two free form swimming pools. From about US$220.

• Pertiwi Resort and Spa, Monkey Forest St, +62 361 975236, Combining traditional Balinese design with modern touches, their rooms exude pure comfort. Each accommodation features alang-alang (thatched) roof, bamboo ceiling, long glass windows. A/C, cable TV, mini-bar, coffee/tea maker. Swimming pools, free wifi access, and a Spa. Rates on official website from US$85. 

• Pita Maha Resort and Spa, Jl Raya Sangginan, +62 361 974330, checkin: 2PM; checkout: noon. Hill-side resort with 24 villas. Good restaurant, high quality spa and lovely pool with views. From US$390. 

• Santi Mandala Villa and Spa, Banjar Bucuan, Batuan (about ten minutes drive south of Ubud), ☎ +62 361 297800, Located on the southern outskirts of Ubud. Spa centre, poolside sunken bar and large private villas. From US$150. 

• Ubud Hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, +62-361) 982700, checkin: 2PM; checkout: 11AM. On steep terraces overlooking the Ayung river and an ancient temple. 38 luxury villas, each with a heated private swimming pool. Villas with panoramic views of the valley, or riverside villas in the privacy of the gorge. Spa and innovative restaurant. From US$150.

• The Viceroy Bali, Jl Lanyahan, Banjar Nagi, Laplapan (In the Lembah valley between Ubud and Tampaksiring), +62 361 971777 (enquires@theviceroybali.com), checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM. Boutique hotel with four different grades of villa. Pristine valley setting, views from all the villas. In-house spa, good restaurant, shuttle buses into Ubud. A member of Small Leading Hotels of the World. From US$450.

• Wakanamya Resort and Spa, Penestanan, Ubud, +62 361 975719 (info@wakanamya.com), checkin: 2PM; checkout: 11AM. Resort in the "painters' village" of Penestanan, built in traditional Balinese style. From US$150.

• Waka Di Ume Resort & Spa, Jl Suweta, +62 361 973178 (reservation@wakadiumeubud.com), checkin: 2PM; checkout: noon. Rural rice field setting 10 min north of Ubud town centre. Well maintained established resort. Good spa services and restaurant, and regular free shuttle buses into Ubud. From US$225.

• Villa Sabandari, Jl Pura Gunung Sari 4, Peliatan, +62 361 976586 (info@sabandari.com), checkin: 2PM; checkout: noon. 6 room boutique hotel in the rice fields. Walking distance from the centre of Ubud. US$200-250.  

Private villas

The following are private, individual villas which only take a single group of customers at a time.

• Agung Khalia Villa, Banjar Sala, Pejeng, +62 812 3983940, Private villas from studio to three bedroom and six bedroom. Panoramic rice field and Mount Agung views. Each villa has its own private pool, staff and full service. Only 10 min east from central Ubud in the same valley as the Maya Ubud resort, and close to Goa Gajah. From US$185. 

• De Ubud Villas & Spa, Jl Monkey Forest No.8, +62 361 981492, checkin: 2PM; checkout: noon. 3 private pool villas located in central Ubud. Choice of 1 bedroom, 2 bedroom and 3 bedroom villas. From US$260. 

• Villa di Abing, Jl Jembawan, +62 813 38083508, 3 storey, 3 bedroom, fully staffed villa, in central Ubud. Riverside pool, natural green views and within easy walking distance of Ubud town centre. From US$175. 

Stay safe

Ubud is a safe town to visit and few problems will ever be encountered. If you are unlucky though the police station is on Jl Raya Andong, just east of the town centre. Follow Jl Raya Ubud east to the end, turn north and the police station is on your right hand side. +62 361 975316.
Be wary around the monkeys that occupy the Monkey Forest. They are experts at stealing possessions like glasses, cameras and even handbags, and have been known to attack people carrying food. Bali is currently battling a rabies outbreak, and the likelihood is that these monkeys could carry the disease. No matter how cute they look, feeding them is just asking for trouble.

Stay healthy

Ubud does not have a fully fledged hospital and the nearest is about 20 km to the south in Denpasar. There are a number of reasonable clinics though which are used to treating typical traveller ailments.

• Ubud Clinic, Jl Raya Campuan 36, +62 361 974911.